New Blog Ready to Roll! (Sort of)

Its here!

I’m nowhere near to completing the website but its 70% ready to roll, so I’m posting it up for public use now. Its called “Birds of Phuket” and can be accessed at http://birdsofphuket.quotaless.com. I intend to change it to a .com or .info name as soon as I can and will let you know once that change occurs.

As I said, I’m still working on finalizing a lot of pages and ironing out the bugs but for now all the news and information will be posted there and we’ll give phuketbirder an early retirement.

I will miss blogger and we’ve had a good year together; I won’t delete this blog for at least another year so the information in the posts will still be here, although they will get a little outdated as time rolls on.

See you at Birds of Phuket!

New Site Coming Soon

Phuket Birder has been around for almost a year now. We’ve seen a lot of input from a steady stream of birders and nature lovers and a am grateful to all for their comments and visits. Keep the love coming!

In order to be of better assistance to birders I have decided to move to Mexico.

Ha ha! –Just joking!

I’m moving, but not abroad; I’m just moving to a new website.

I am currently working on a new site which will be called Birds of Phuket, dedicated to the birder and to nature and other related happenings here in the south. The site will be a more flexible than the current site, with additional pages which will cover prime birding locations, stakeouts, photos and more. It looks like it will be a lot of fun so stay tuned!

I hope to have it functional by early May but not all the pages will be up and running by then. As you can imagine, writing a complete overview of any particular birding location takes time, something which is scarce when you have three kids under the age of 4 and are engaged in projects to help the socially disadvantaged fulltime.

Therefore, if there is a dip in posts, please understand I am trying to devote as much time as I can to getting this site up and running.

Thanks for being such great guests. Come by and see us again soon!

Cycle of Destruction: The Definition of "Protected" in Thailand

Protected land in Thailand has little meaning to the local person, other than its literary definition. Much of Thailand’s protected land, be it a national park, watershed station or forest hilltop, suffers mercilessly at the hands of locals and businesses, all of whom have their eyes fixed on a “here and now” and “what’s in it for me” ideology rather than a “what about our future” mentality.

Wetlands are protected by law. –But the definition of wetland is up to the land department. Forested hilltops are government property and also protected by law. Bald hilltops can lead to erosion which causes mudslides, much like the disaster in Nan back in 2003. Last but not least, forested hilltops act as a watershed, supplying the inhabitants of the valley with life-giving water. But that hasn’t stopped local squatters from erecting lean-tos and clearing spots on the hillsides to cultivate or raise livestock such as chickens or pigs, both prime destructors of hillsides due to their habit of digging into the soil to find their food. With the thin topsoil eroded and the roots exposed, many young trees and shrubs simply wither away.

Look in any hilltop in Phuket and tell me if you find an untouched peak. I’ll pay for a fence to keep intruders out. But I know I won’t be spending a penny because there isn’t such a thing anymore.

National parks cover 10% of Thailand’s total land area. But of the 10% we’ve set aside, how much of it is fully protected? Just because there is a sign posted and a local ranger on hand to watch over it doesn’t mean that it’s “protected.” It reminds me of the story from the Bangkok Post back in 2002 of a young student who was brutally raped and murdered in one of the construction sites for the subway. There was a security guard on duty; yet he was powerless to help the victim and was threatened by the killers: one move towards the girl or the telephone meant certain death for him. The same with the park staff, who face an uphill struggle to protect what was entrusted into their care, and yet are not given adequate equipment or weapons to do their job properly. All they can do is, like the security guard, become spectators to a hideous crime, all the while hoping that they too won’t be the next victims.

What more can I say?

Project Extermination for Talang Wetlands

Dave called me up a few days ago to tell me that the Openbill habitat at Bann Don was being filled in for a new construction project. He reported “6 big dump trucks in a little under 10 minutes and a bulldozer” were filling in a plot of wetland in preparation for some new project, I assume a new housing development.

A quick call to the local police was met with the unnerving answer that “It’s their land and they can do as they please.” A land department official, after being asked if it was right to destroy wetlands which are under government protection, replied that “Wetlands must be recognized by the land department before they can be protected.”

So where do we begin?

Wetlands are under threat all over Thailand due to the fact, like the official said, “It’s not recognized.” Well, either the officials haven’t been looking or they were blind. I tend to think its both.

Nong Bong Kai has faced encroachment issues on more occasion than once. Koa Sam Roi Yot has shrimp ponds inside the national park zone. Land in Thailand is not respected as a habitat but more as a means of income. And for these Openbills, we just might be seeing them for the last time, since they aren’t planning on wintering in prime housing estates come next year.

Birding Log: 20/2/08

A trip to Nai Yang beach was purely to get away from the monotony of going to Nai Harn beach every time we wanted to see the sea. The trip paid off. –We got to see a dolphin splashing over the waves near the beach!

Highlight of the day was an Emerald Dove which sat on an exposed perch near the beach. Odd sighting! Red Wattled Lapwings were being hunted by a group of local children armed with slingshots. On the beach we saw a Little Egret and three dark morph Pacific Reef Egret. Other birds on the beach included Black Drongo, Brahminy kite, Black shouldered Kite, Collared and White throated Kingfisher, Common and White Vented Myna, Common Sandpiper and Yellow vented Bulbul.

Across the Sarasin Beach opposite the national park was a patch of mud that drew a large congregation of waders and egrets. I couldn’t make it down to the patch but I did get to see a Sanderling which landed close by and gave good views.

Dinner at the local seaside restaurant was tempting but home was also a good 45 minutes away so I missed out on that. Next time then!

The Asian Openbill: Killer or Companion?

Asian Openbills are by far the most common species of storks in Thailand. There was a time, however, when these birds were threatened stemming from a rise in the use of chemical pesticides in rice fields and the never-ending desire of Thai and Burmese workers to eat something fresh that could not be obtained from the local markets.

-Not to mention the well-known rumor among local farmers that Openbills are prime carriers of the dreaded Bird Flu virus. Birds in the central plains were being poisoned by the hundreds a few years back by ill-advised farmers who thought that by killing the storks they would spare their poultry from being infected, when the complete solution would have been to keep their poultry healthy through the aid of medicines and vitamins and most importantly cook their meat thoroughly before consuming it.

Openbills are actually a boon to the farmer. Openbills thrive on a diet of Cherry Snails among other things, and Cherry Snails are one of the rice farmers’ biggest threats, along with locusts. Openbills are a natural solution to the thorny problem and their gregarious culture allows them to consume large amount of snails and eggs in a single feeding. -And the best thing about it is they demand no payment for their services.

Dave’s discovery of this probable wintering colony was an incredible find, not only because it proves their range is so much farther south than one had expected but also because it shows how these resilient birds are bouncing back. The question one must ask however, is how long will they last here? There are numerous threats they face here in the south, ranging from uninformed farmers to a larger population of Burmese immigrants. One can only hope that with time the locals will learn to appreciate these creatures and provide the protection that they so desperately need in order to survive.

Birding Log: 9/2/08

Dave Williams of Paddle Asia called me yesterday to tell me he had spotted a group of Asian Openbill Storks at the Talang Battlefield in Baan Don. I was too busy to drop by so I went this morning to have a look. I had barely gotten past Thepkasatree temple when I spotted a group of 17 birds hovering in the sky. We ended up going down three dead end roads until we came to a field where the birds seemed to be congregating. We went up Pasak soi 8 and took a left turn in a rubber plantation where magically, we came upon the entire flock of Openbills! As I moved the car forward for a closer look the entire flock took to flight and for a few minutes the sky was filled with storks. –What a view!

They settled in a field near Laguna and I did a bit more birding until I had to head back to Phuket town to make my next appointment in Rawai.

Other birds seen were Great, Intermediate and Little Egrets, Chinese Pond Herons, Black Drongo, Spotted Dove, Brahminy Kite, Common and White Vented Mynas, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Barn and Pacific Swallow, Brown Shrike, Little Cormorant, Little Grebe and Black Bittern, to name most of the 28 species we saw in a little over 20 minutes.

Blog Notice No. 4: IMPORTANT!!!

I’d like to apologize to those who have written me and didn’t receive a reply back. Some mail goes through the ike_suriwong@yahoo address and there has been a lot of problems with that account or with my internet. Therefore, I’d like to ask that you please write me at ikeandrosie@gmail.com if you want a swift reply.

Again, sorry to those who may not have received a reply from me. I did not mean to come across as rude or impolite. I take all mail seriously and will try to help out where and when I can.

Thanks.

Birding Log: 27/1/08

An unexpected trip to see my grandparents in Chantaburi was initially disappointing as it meant I’d have to skip the family reunion in Petchaburi this year. Also, due to the limited amount of time we had available, I was unable to squeeze in a much-anticipated trip to Kao Soi Dao and Ang Ru Nai National Parks.

A short respite by the side of the road near Samut Sakorn on the way to Bangkok was refreshing. Huge flocks of Whiskered Terns were seen flying across the road and among them were several Brown Headed Gulls and a single larger gull which looked similar to a Herring Gull or one of it’s affiliates. In the waning evening light a single Grey Heron was seen feeding in a shallow saltpan, along with a small group of Black-winged Stilts, Common Sandpiper, Little Egret and a few Chinese Pond Herons. A Black –Headed Ibis flew by and disappeared behind a clump of vegetation near the ponds.

A few days later on the way home we again decided to drop by a small soi near the main highway to see if anything interesting was to be found. We were rewarded with stunning, up-close views of a Greater Spotted Eagle, its massive size completely taking us by surprise as it soared only meters from our car. It’s a pity the camera wasn’t available when we needed it! A Chinese Pond Heron and a Black Capped Kingfisher were flushed out when we crossed a narrow bridge into a large expanse of ponds and shrubs. The eagle showed up again but this time I missed it while trying to photograph a pair of giant Water Monitors engaged in a fight. A large flock of some 80 Lesser Whistling Ducks took to flight when we peered into one of the ponds and a lovely surprise was waiting there was well: a Common Coot! On a tall telephone pole we spotted a single Indian Shag, its size completely dwarfing the Little Comorants as they flew past. Three Purple Herons flew past followed by two Grey Herons and a small flock of Little Egrets. A local stopped by to see what was happening and told us there were better things in store if we were to drive further into the area. Taking his advice we drove in further and took a left turn where we came to a large abandoned shrimp pond which was packed with Great Egret, Little Cormorant, a Brown headed Gull and a single Great Cormorant. Black Kites soared in small groups overhead and a Ruddy-breasted Crake ran across the road a few times. Again a few water Monitors came by, one almost running directly under the car wheels!

On the way back we passed another pond and found a Caspian Tern making its rounds, along with a number of Whiskered and Black napped Terns. A nice 30 minute stop with over 40 species and I hope to make it back here for a more complete trip out.

Slain Mammals Intercepted in Nakorn Panom

The front page of Kao Sot newspaper for yesterday showed a photo of a ranger examining the carcasses of 11 tigers loaded in the back of a pickup truck. According to the story, over 300 mammals, including leopards, panthers, marbled cats and porcupines were a part of a shipment which was intercepted in Nakorn Panom enroute to China via the Laotian border. No doubt these creatures were all destined to end up on some exotic menu in some ritzy restaurant in southern China.

Tigers are on the brink of becoming extinct here in Thailand and many of the large national parks such as Kao Yai have not reported seeing one in years. In fact Kao Yai, the site of the notorious man-eating killer tiger duo back in the late 1990’s is now shamefully reporting that there is only one known tiger left in the entire national park! What is happening to our national heritage?

30 years ago a trip to a national park meant that one would get a chance to see large mammals and wildlife, much like a trip to the African Serengeti, albeit on a lesser scale. Today it’s hard to even see simple creatures such as birds or squirrels in many of our national parks. That, along with the continuance of illegal logging in some of the northernmost parks makes me wonder what we’ll have left for our children when we get to be 80 years old.

It may be taboo to say this but perhaps a rightful solution to the ongoing demand for tiger meat in China would be to pressure the Chinese government to start a breeding program from which they could “raise” tigers solely for their meat and hides, much like the mink farms in northern Europe. If that is too much to ask, perhaps they would invest in a secret project to clone tigers and harvest them for their meat. After all, only the Chinese are interested in eating them; why should we have to pay dearly of our national heritage to please the appetite of some superstitious Chinese with a healthy pocketbook?

Hornbill Couple Spotted on Kao Rang

Mr. Grant Upton of Thai Channel 11 called me up a few days ago with surprising news that a pair of Oriental Pied Hornbills were seen foraging in the trees around the TV station in Kao Rang. This was very surprising news indeed, and to see two hornbills in such a busy location and in the very heart of Phuket town was by all means extraordinary.

The footage taken by the cameramen showed the birds checking out a possible nesting spot in a cavity of a mature tree, showing that the birds may possibly decide to nest on Kao Rang in the upcoming breeding months. Mr. Grant caught footage of one of the birds calling and later the male was seen presenting the female with food, a sign of courtship.

The birds have since disappeared and we hope that they will return someday soon.

WARNING: Steer Clear of Hala-Bala

Hala Bala is a mouth-watering birding site which many people, including myself, are dying to visit.

The trouble is, if you are dying to visit, you just might end up paying that price.

Narathiwat has now become the focus of the main insurgency in the south. Previously the main trouble was in Pattani, but now the focus has shifted and the situation there has gotten a whole lot worse. Much of the news from the region has been “blacked out’ by the army and government there and little is know about the offensive and whats really going on there.

Unless you are an insider.

My uncle owns a restaurant in Pattani and he reported that the days are very quiet. Few people venture outside their homes for fear of being shot at by the local insurgency, who have gone from shooting government officials and police to shooting anyone they can find, regardless of their religion or standing in society. On average at least 2 or 3 people are killed there daily, many of them being innocent workers or manual laborers. Foreigners and even Thais from other provinces are looked upon as potential targets and like was reported, its only a matter of time before the first foreigner will be murdered there, causing the situation to flare into proportions unthinkable.

The latest strategy devised by the insurgents is to plant a bomb or a pack of TNT under a road or highway and blow up the next vehicle that comes by. These attacks often take place in broad daylight. Many of the roads and streets in the far south are deserted.

Anyhow, this is a warning: Please do not attempt to visit Hala-Bala at this time. The visit might just be your last.

Bird Log: 12/1/08

Children’s Day is a good time to get away for a bit and so I tired to combine two things that would make everyone happy: birds and boats.

We headed off in the morning to Tap Lamru Navy Base and got there around 9 AM. It was evident that the area around the base was perfect for birding, with lots of open fields dotted with swampy pools of water and casuarinas trees. While my son was busy admiring the 155mm howitzers I was busy scanning the nearby fields and pools and a few birds showed well. A Black Shouldered Kite was hovering in the distance and a Purple Swamphen sat quietly in a thicket. A Pintail Snipe flew overhead and landed only a few feet from us and around the edge of the pond were Common Sandpipers were feeding. Down by the pier and the boats we saw Brahkminy Kite, White bellied Sea Eagle and plenty of Pacific Swallows, some of which were perched literally at arms length from the boat. Whimbrel flew by in loose flocks as well.

After the sight seeing we decided to cool down at Sri Phang Nga National Park. I was not expecting any birds to be seen here as it was high time for partying and plenty of locals love to find a quiet place where they can make all the noise they want. Sure enough we ended up at the campsite with 12 other vehicles loaded with locals, food, drinks and music. The trail to a smaller more remote waterfall was quiet but produced Ochraceous Bulbuls and a few unidentified babblers. Pale legged Warbler was present as well. The waterfall was quiet and predictably so as we had brought ten kids along on the trek and the sight of cool water was reason enough to celebrate.

The campsite in the later afternoon was still a scene of confusion but at least it wasn’t as quiet as it was on my last trip there on the 5th of last month. A Great Hornbill was happily feasting on berries in a tree right in the middle of the campsite and a pair of Red throated Barbets could be seen buzzing around the trees as well. In the high canopy a Gold Whiskered Barbet was heard and after much difficulty was finally seen. Other good birds here were Stripe throated Bulbul, Orange Breasted Trogon and Whiskered Treeswift. A Bushy Crested Hornbill flew high overhead and didn’t give satisfying looks.

I was hoping that by staying until dusk I would be able to sight some more hornbills as they flew in search of roosting spots for the night but the forest, exhausted by the terrors of the long day, decided not to reveal any more secrets. A well-stocked day with 32 species and happy memories even though it was not an official birding trip.

ID Me Please, Exhibit 1

Sorry for the grainy shot but what do you think this is?

I think it’s a juvenile White bellied Sea eagle.

This photo was taken at 5 PM over the Central-Tai Naan intersection. The bird was being harassed by two Brahminy Kite.

Birding Log: 3/1/08

And we start the New Year with a bang!

I decided to take the kids to Laem Panwa Aquarium to see the sea life and enjoy the fresh sea air in the afternoon. We had a good time and after touring the aquarium decided to try the nature walk which led behind the aquarium.

Near the hatchery we came across three very friendly dark morph Pacific Reef Egret, all of which are permanent residents of the aquarium and live under the pier. Dying camera batteries prevented me from getting a better picture with the aging Canon S2 camera I own. Further down the road in a large tree we noticed a quarrel between a group of Yellow vented Bulbuls and a pair of Streak eared Bulbuls. Three Brown Shrike sat on decaying logs nearby waiting for insects to appear from the undergrowth. In a casuarinas tree near the turtle ponds we also found a single Scarlet backed Flowerpecker and a female Brown throated Sunbird. Along the bend in the road near a gathering of banana trees a single Little Spiderhunter was busy at work combing the flowers for its prey. Up the hill in yet another tree a pair of Thick billed Pigeons were settling in for the night and two noisy Large Billed Crow flew past. A single juvenile Brahminy Kite soared above the trees almost as though it were pasted there by some invisible glue. Near the retaining pond we came across a juvenile Black napped Oriole and some Common Myna. Up in a tall tree near the pond we found a flock of some 40 green pigeons, most of which were Orange Breasted and a few Pink Necked, along with two squirrels which seemed to be contently resting in the presence of the birds . A White throated Kingfisher was seen in flight and a Little Heron was busy snatching small fish from the edge of the pond.

Up the hill we came to a forested area where we searched for an owl, presumed to be the Spotted Wood Owl, but there was no call and the locals said they hadn’t seen it for quite some time, perhaps even some years.

There was a nest in a tree near the radar beacon on the top of the hill which a local described as a nest of a White bellied Sea eagle.

Down the hill and near the houses we came across a few more birds: Oriental Magpie Robin, Asian Brown Flycatcher, Coppersmith barbet, Black headed Bulbul, Chinese Pond Heron and Olive Backed Sunbird.

I later was able to reacquaint myself with another birder, Professor Sohn, who works at the center. I met him once about three years ago in my first quest to search for the mysterious owl of Laem Panwa. Mr. Sohn described the area as a haven for birdlife and said birding here is terrific in the mornings and evenings, with two separate groups of birds present at different times. Some of the birds he has seen recently include the wintering Siberian Blue Robin, frigatebirds, Chestnut Winged Cuckoo and even occasionally a pair of Great or Oriental Pied Hornbill from the nearby Koh Tapao island! Small owlets can be seen on the road at night scavenging off the dead creatures which had been run over by cars and in the low tide one can see a large variety of wader life which hang out near the shallow coral beds. In the past flocks of hundreds of green pigeons could be seen flying in to roost in the evenings but due unscrupulous characters which decided to turn these lovely creatures into a tasty dinner, the population has decreased dramatically. Thankfully, now that the construction work is over and the area free of hunters, the population should be able to regain its former glory.

Try it sometime, it’s a great place and birding is almost too easy here! –And the best part about it is that you don’t have to pay to go birding here!

Chinese New Year Birding Trip to Laem Pak Bia

It looks like I just might be lucky this year!

Chinese New year on February 3rd is a time for families to reunite and it seems like this year its finally going to work out for me to attend the gathering of all gatherings in my old hometown: Petchaburi!

My relatives will all be coming for the event but the best part about it is that while they are all busy catching up on old times, I’ll be free to go birding. And what better place to enjoy birding than to be living smack in the middle of wader land, with salt pans and beach right outside your window. Not only that, but Laem Pak Bia is literally only a ten minute drive from the house!

I’m looking forward to this one with great anticipation.

Koh Pratong Comes Alive

Seems like I may be behind the times already!

According to Professor Sohn of the Institute of Marine Biology in Panwa, Koh Pratong is a very popular birding spot and already some fascinating papers have been published on the unspoiled nature and wonders which can be enjoyed there due to the rather limited infrastructure which has allow nature to retain its former glory. It is one of the few known nesting sites of the Lesser Adjutant on the west coast and also home to other rare species such as the Lesser Fish Eagle and the White bellied Woodpecker.

Since there is no transportation on the island, it is virtually impossible to get around without the help of the locals. Getting to the island is hard enough, and anyone wanting to go there should be prepared to rough it out by bringing their own tent and supplies. I hope to try it one day; and to make sure I do not spoil this still untouched nature, I will bring along my bicycle for transportation. I urge you to do the same.

Birding Odds and Ends for December

Six Black Baza were seen flying westward near British International School on the afternoon of the 4th. An Osprey was seen at the Kings Park in Phuket town at around 10 AM on the morning of the 2nd. Other birders were alerted but the bird failed to show when they arrived about a hour later. Another Osprey was seen on the 22nd near Kao Rang, also in Phuket town, but this bird was very tattered and missing many wing and tail feathers. A Grey Heron was seen in the lily pond near the Kings Park on the 23rd and on the same afternoon a flock of some 40 Thick-billed Pigeons were seen flying into a tree to roost for the night. This species is new for the park.

A captured Blue Winged Pitta was seen selling at a local bird shop and the trader said he caught it near Chao Fah Tani housing estate on the 12th of this month. The bird looked healthy but who knows what will become of it. -Gaeng Pet, perhaps? Two Eurasian Kestrel were seen on the Chao Fah-Kathu Bypass road on the evening of the 25th and a single Peregrine was sighted with a bird in its claws crossing the highway near Lotus on the evening of the 18th.

Merry Christmas Everyone!

A Merry Christmas to all our friends and family!

May you all live long lives and grow old so you can see your great grandchildren so that you can tell them exciting stories about your life as a teenager back in the “good old days” and may you experience joy, peace, contentment and fulfillment this next year, all without having to die young.

-And may you cease from reading ancient Chinese New Year Fortune Cookies as they can really, really be dumb and are often a waste of time.

Birding Log: 13/12/07

I had to drop someone off at the airport around 11.30. My next destination was a pickup at Surin beach, but with lunch break fast approaching, I decided to stick around the airport and do some birding during the lunch hour instead of driving all the way to Surin and waste an hour waiting for the offices to open.

I went by the Phuket Future Plan site, which is now undergoing an extensive lock-down and security uprade, with new gates and barbwire being installed in various sectors which, once up and running, will effectively close off the area to all outside interference. –This is disappointing news for the birding community, as we don’t cause any disruption in this area; it’s the locals who come here, start a fire, have a barbecue and go fishing, leaving in their wake a trail of rubbish and litter. Either way, soon we’ll have to start asking for permission if we want to bird here.

The weather was cloudy but soon turned sunny when I arrived. My first stop was along the road near a cow pen where some cows and buffaloes were grazing. My gem for the day was a large fruiting fig tree which was acting as a buffet table for Coppersmith, Red throated and Lineated Barbets, Eurasian Koel and Black napped Oriole. Watching the Koels, it seemed like they must have been nesting as they frequently would fly sorties between the fig tree and other trees in the distance. The Coppersmith Barbets were very common here, and over 80 birds were counted in the vicinity of the tree!

Further down the road a newly erected gate stopped me in my tracks, forcing me to try going in the back route. High in the treetops, a flock of Common Myna were swaying with the tree in the light breeze and among them was a single Purple Backed Starling.

The back route passes through a swamp and shrimp pond, both of which were well-stocked Little Cormorant and Little and Great Egret. Further down the track a passed a pair of Zebra Doves, both of which were quite tame (feral population?) and a few more Kingfisher. Down near the shore I parked the car and walked to a nearby pond. Lesser Whistling Duck were sleeping on the water as Little Grebe fished in the shallows. High in the canopy, Ashy Drongo and Ashy Minivets were moving through the trees hunting for food.

I headed back after about 20 minutes of birding and had 24 species in that amount of time. Birds that are common here that did not show today included Common Flameback, Hoopoe and Forest Wagtail. Perhaps it was the presence of tractors combing through the area constructing the checkpoints.

Birding Log: 5/12/07

The day started at 6 AM with an early morning drive to Phang Nga. The air was cool and fresh and along the road past Thai Muang a thin mist covered the fields. Along the side of the road I managed to pick out a few common species such as Common and White Vented Myna, Eurasian Tree Sparrow, Cattle Egret other common open-country species.

At Kao Lak I picked up two birders, Mr. Weiner and Mrs. Meta, both from Sweden. They had contacted me to take them birding for a day and luckily, I was able to get away for a day and celebrate Father’s Day birding in Phang Nga. What a treat! We started off with a quick stop at a field near the Takuapah-Ranong intersection. Grey headed Lapwing was aplenty here; in fact, I counted up 54 of them and yet not a single Red Wattled Lapwing in sight! An Asian Brown Flycatcher gave good looks and came quite close. A tall, high-tension electric wire was the center of activity for a good mix of birds which included Coppersmith Barbet, Blue tailed and Chestnut capped Bee eaters and Pacific Swallow. All the birds seemed to be enjoying the morning sun and the wire was a good place to get warmed up for the day. A decaying wooden fence was perfect for White throated Kingfisher and each post was occupied by at least one bird. Other birds seen were Spotted Dove, Brown Shrike, Great, Little and Cattle Egret and White breasted Waterhen.

Our next stop was the Bang Yai river with its exposed sandbars, a favorite hangout site of the River Lapwing. The bushes and trees along the roadside near the river was a good place to start looking and it wasn’t long before Stripe-throated Bulbul showed up, followed by Yellow Vented Bulbul and another Brown Shrike. A flowering coconut tree drew the attention of Olive backed Sunbirds and was the object of contention for a pair of Scarlet backed Flowerpeckers. On the grassy banks of the river we picked out three kingfisher: Black Capped, Common and White Throated. The sun was starting to beat down on us and I knew that we didn’t have much time before all the birds would retreat to the cool of the forest. Scanning the sandbars in the distance we managed to pick out a pair of Little Egret and a Little Cormorant drying its wings in the sunlight. A form of what appeared to be a bird nesting on the sandbar caught my attention. We got a scope on it and it was indeed a River Lapwing! I’ve been to this same spot three times and dipped it every time. Its behavior indicated it may have been guarding a nest; it would get up, walk around and return to sit back in the same place. Two more flew over a sandbar and into a bush in the distance. Later, a Red Wattled Lapwing landed on a sandbar close to us. Three lapwings in two hours!

Despite the rising temperatures the birding was still quite eventful. In about an hour we had seen Little Ringed and Pacific Golden Plovers, Common Sandpiper, Blue Throated and Chestnut capped Bee Eater, and a snipe (presumably Common) along with all the aforementioned birds.

A raptor flew high overhead but was too far away to identify.

By then it was 10.30 and we decided to make a move and head towards Sri Phang Nga National Park. The drive there was pleasant and grey rain clouds gave us good shade. Along with way we saw an Indian Roller, but the bird decided not to put on it’s usual spectacular “rolling” display for us. Near the entrance of the park we stopped by the roadside to take a look at a bird of prey soaring in the distance. I got some good views of the wing pattern but it wasn’t until the bird landed on a tree in the distance that we were able to get the scope on it and identify it as Rufous-bellied Eagle. White-handed Gibbons could be heard calling from the hilltops but none were seen.

We arrived at the park a few minutes before noon and decided to grab a bite to eat before heading into the forest. The cafeteria was clean and the cooks understood what I meant when I said I didn’t want anything too spicy. –Unlike other restaurants which serve “mild spicy” foods which are hot enough to light your pants on fire! I also got to talk to the superintendent of the park, who told me that the three national parks on the west side of Phang Nga (Kao Lak, Sri Phang Nga and Thai Mueang) have received permission to charge foreigners only 100 baht entry fee instead of the usual ridiculous 400 baht per head. Get in there while it lasts!

After a cheap but delicious lunch of stir-fired meat in curry sauce we decided to make our way towards the campsite. The sun had come out again and Great Hornbill were calling from a ridge nearby, although I doubted they’d fly by since the heat was getting close to unbearable. It wasn’t long before I was proven wrong and a pair of Great Hornbills flew over the headquarters in full splendor and majesty. I’ve seen them many times before but it always gives me a thrill to see such a huge bird flying so gracefully. What an amazing creation of God!

A quick visit to the stream looking for any possible forktails was dashed when a noisy group of children came down the trail to wade in the shallow pool. Scared off by the children were a family of Bulbuls (couldn’t identify them fast enough), a flock of Chinese Pond Heron and a Forest Wagtail.

We set off down the road which led to the campsite and the entire stretch of road was dead quiet, with the exception of the sound of cicadas wailing. Once at the campsite it became apparent that perhaps we had chosen the wrong day to go birding; throngs of noisy locals, armed with somtam and gai yang were enjoying the Father’s Day holiday and were making a ruckus in the normally quiet park. Disgusted with the confusion, we decided to try a forest trail in he hopes that with all the attention being focused on this side of the park, the nature would be easily found deeper in the undisturbed streams and falls inside the forest.

We opted to take the trail to the second waterfall instead of attempting a three-hour hike up the rugged hillsides with all our equipment. The three-kilometer path was for the most part quiet and the hike there produced only two birds, an Asian Brown Flycatcher and a Pale-legged Leaf Warbler. We cooled down and relaxed a bit at the falls and I found a spot which appeared to be a favorite perch for a Fish Owl near the pool. Bird droppings, fish bits and refuse were littered on the rocks and some of the droppings looked very fresh. A thorough search of the tree came up empty handed.

The way back was a bit better in birding terms. Near a bamboo patch we encountered a small bird wave with Grey Headed Flycatcher and Striped Tit-Babbler dancing about in the trees. Near the stream we came across a flock of Ochraceous Bulbul, their loud and flamboyant behavior making them quite noticeable. An Asian Paradise Flycatcher was present and seemed to be nesting as well. A Grey Wagtail was seen in the stream and the ever annoying Pale-Legged Leaf Warbler kept following us, almost as if to complain that it wasn’t getting enough attention from us birders.

Back at the campsite we were relieved to see the last of the revelers leaving. Despite the silence that followed their departure, the forest decided not to reveal her secrets to us that day. We decided to try the trail to Tam Nang Waterfall in the hopes of finding the famed Hooded Pitta. Before we set off, a Lesser Fish Eagle swooped in and cleared the treetops en route to the waterfall we had just come from.

Down the trail we went, and this time we were again met with the same disappointing silence; not even a peep. Nothing showed up. At the falls we took photos and got good looks at an immature Malayan Night Heron which had been disturbed by the revelers and was looking for a good place to spend the last hours of the day. –Perhaps we should have thanked the locals after all!

The way back down the trail was equally as dead until we passed a mixed bamboo thicket in which I heard a sound which resembled that of a frogmouth. Despite all our attempts to locate it we could not see it and instead I left the thicket with a horde of angry ants on my back.

The road back produced a Yellow Wagtail and a Black Bittern but besides that there was nothing. A Blue Throated Barbet called from some trees in the high canopy but we could not locate it.

We spent the last 30 minutes waiting near the cafeteria for some hornbills to pass overhead but for some reason they decided to stay put. We left the park at 6 PM and the sunlight was quickly fading Greater Coucal showed up in some bushes at the exit point and later on down the road I almost ran over a Greater Racket-tailed Drongo. The last stop of the day was on the roadside where we admired a flock of Little Egret in formation heading west and caught glimpses of a giant Flying Fox making its way into the forested hillside.

Despite the setbacks I will have to admit it was a pretty good day, not impressive in numbers but in the quality of birds. Special thanks as well to Mr. Weiner and Mrs. Meta for their generous donation towards Youth Activated projects. 54 species and a host of other lizards and insects made the trip special.

Birding Log: 2/12/07

On the way to the beach this afternoon I was able to hook up with some newfound birders and we enjoyed a good time together. Ian and Mike are two expat birders and Andy, a birder visiting from England was also present. It’s good to know there are other birders on this island!

My primary objective was to find the Orange Breasted Green Pigeon. I didn’t get that but we did find lots of other wonderful birds. Birding took place at a dried-out marsh on Sai Yuan road on the way to Nai Harn beach on the south of the island. Specialties found were a pair of Alexandrine Parakeets (presumed to be feral) which may be nesting in a large tree, a nesting Black Shouldered Kite and a large flock of Pink-necked Green Pigeons. Surprisingly active for such a busy and populated area, the marsh produced an endless supply of surprises. Black Baza, Pacific Swallow, Watercock, Cinnamon Bittern, Great Egret, Peregrine Falcon and Grey Headed and Red Wattled Lapwing were some of the other birds seen on the outing.

As we were leaving, a Blue Whistling Thrush appeared on a rooftop and gave fleeting glimpses. I am impressed.

The Thai Birder's Bible Revamped!

The Bible of the Thai birder just got an upgrade!

The downside is that so far it’s only available in Thai.

The book that started it all, the Guide to Birds of Thailand (second edition), co-authored by Dr. Phil Round and Dr. Boonsong Lekagul as recently been republished with updated distribution maps and new species added. The book has been instrumental in encouraging Thai people to take up birding as a hobby and to promote environmental awareness among the local people. So ironically it should not be a surprise that the first print of this book, timed to commemorate Dr. Lekaguls’ 100th birthday anniversary, should be in Thai.

While many birders still prefer to use Craig Robson’s Birds of Thailand, I for one still enjoy the old version partly due to the fact that it offers more text as well as a thorough rundown of Thailand’s forests and landscape. For a new or amateur birder, this book definitely helps to explain things clearly. The illustrations are not as good as the ones offered in Craig Robson’s book, which is why I’d advise you to use both!

I do hope to see this book come out in English soon.

Birding Log: 26/11/07

A morning drive past the fields on the road to the British International School seemed nondescript until I caught something in flight from the corner of my eye. Pulling to the side of the road, I scanned the area with my bins and lo and behold, there was an Oriental Darter making circles around a pond looking for a resting spot. First time I’ve seen this one in Phuket! Andy Coltridge and Dave Willams saw one at the Sapan Hin Recycle Center a few years ago so this has got to be the second for Phuket in the recent years. Other birds seen in the area over a five minute birding span included Black Drongo, Oriental Pratincole, Red Wattled Lapwings, Little Grebe, Little Cormorant, Lesser Coucal (in non-breeding plumage) and Common Kingfisher.

All in all there were 28 species seen in a little over five minutes, with the Darter being the prize of the show. When the sun is just starting to warm up the ground and the morning is still cool, birding becomes so easy it’s almost like hunting an elephant on a soccer pitch. –You can’t miss them!

Bird Updates for the Month

Warm sun, cool breeze … yes, this is what I remember most about winters in Phuket. I LOVE it! Of course I still miss the cooler weather of the north but at least this is bearable weather.

Some birding logs for the past two weeks:

A single Schrenck’s Bittern was flushed out from reedbeds near the British International School on the 12th. The same day there was a Black Bittern at Suan Luang, a Cinnamon Bittern in a lotus pond near Suan Luang and a Yellow Bittern at Sapan Hin. What a catch! A rainy day was instrumental in bringing out birdlife. On the 14th two Blue Throated Bee Eaters, a Plaintive and Oriental Cuckoo were seen in a rubber plantation near Chalong. Other birds seen that day included a pair of Bar Breasted Buttonquail, an Oriental Honey-Buzzard and five Japanese Sparrowhawk in various locations around Phuket. Ian Dugdale, a fellow birder in Phuket, sent photos of what appear to be feral Indian Rose Ringed Parakeets in Nai Harn and sighted an Alexandrine Parakeet on the 18th. Many cagebirds escape from local traders here, with some pleasant sightings including a Scarlet Macaw and a Sulfur Crested Cockatoo over the past two months. A Lesser Coucal (a not-so-commonly seen bird for Phuket) was seen on the 20th and an Osprey was seen on the afternoon of the 23rd near the ponds at the British International School. So far there has been one bird seen frequenting this area every year for the past five years!

Birding Log: 17/11/07

This afternoon I was finally able to make a second trip out to Pak Khok for a family outing. Thailand has not yet adopted the daylight savings clock so evenings come rather quickly nowadays, with complete darkness setting in at around 6.20-6.30 PM. We didn’t want to be there too early lest we be burnt by the heat of the afternoon sun but we wanted to be there long enough to enjoy the outing. We arrived at around 5 PM and stayed for an hour until the sun went down.

My last trip to Pak Khok was almost uneventful since I went in the morning and left at around noon. With the cooler weather of the afternoon settling in, birding today was quite a treat. The mangroves came alive with kingfishers, all of which showed splendidly. First off was a Black Capped Kingfisher perched in a low branch which was being shared with two Little Cormorants, followed by a Collared Kingfisher in a low mangrove tree scanning the shallows for fish; lastly a beautiful Brown Winged Kingfisher came close and perched in a dead tree to clean his feathers. Other birds in the area included Large billed Crow, Common Sandpiper, Bar Tailed Godwit, Common Iora, and a Peregrine Falcon which was seen attempting to snag an Asian Palm Swiftlet for dinner.

On the way back to the car we came across an amazing sight: a single, free standing mangrove tree in the bay, which had been selected as the official roosting spot for egrets for the night. We counted over 400 birds in the tree until the mosquitoes drove us on, and even then there were still more birds flocking in! The sound of the squabbling birds jousting for a good place to spend the night reminded a friend accompanying me of the gruntled sounds of Gollum being tortured in the Lord of the Rings Epic. What amazed me the most was the order in the way things we set out; the top of the tree was occupied by some 60 or so Little Cormorant, while the middle and lower branches were filled with Little and Great Egret. Little Heron, numbering a measly 20, claimed the very bottom branches only inches from the water’s reach. A leafless tree about 8 feet away played hotel to a group of Chinese Pond Heron, a 24-strong team which spread themselves out throughout the tree. Each species separated themselves from the other and yet the Little and Great Egrets refused to roost on the same tree as the Chinese Pond Herons, even though there was plenty of room there.

Hope to visit the site again.

Sightings for the First Weeks of November 2007

Blue Tailed Bee Eater near my home

A single Peregrine Falcon was seen hunting in a wooded area near Junk Ceylon in Patong on the afternoon of the 2nd. A large flock of over 400 Philippine Glossy Starling was present at the Central-Thai Naan Intersection near Phuket town from the 2-4th. The numbers now dwindled to around 20 birds. A Barn Owl was seen on the evening of the 6th in flight over Thai Naan. Apparently it roosts somewhere around this area. A Racket-tailed Treepie was seen with a flock of Black Drongos in a garbage heap near Koh Sireh on the 7th. I had to retrace my steps to make sure I wasn’t getting mixed up! Two latecomers, a Black Baza and a Crested Honey-Buzzard were seen in flight heading south-east over Chao Fah road on the afternoon of the 7th. A few minutes later a pair of Japanese Sparrowhawk came by in the same direction.

Mass Raptor Migration on Wednesday Afternoon

Around 5 PM yesterday afternoon I witnessed the tail end of a large migration of raptors and eagles while washing the car outside. My wife had been watching it for almost an hour and didn’t care to mention it to me, something I lectured her for afterwards. Of what I saw, there was at least one Greater Spotted Eagle, 12 Crested Honey Buzzards, 10 Grey faced Buzzard and an assortment of over 200 Japanese Sparrowhawk, Chinese Goshawk and Black Baza. Undoubtedly there were more, but this is what I counted from watching them circle overhead while catching a warm upward drift. They circled for about five minutes (about the time it took for my wife to get the camera out and change the batteries) so these photos are of the stragglers that came after the main group had already moved on.

The birds were heading south-east, for what reason I still don’t know.

Apparently, according to Rosie (my wife), there have been small groups of raptors migrating through this area every day for the past week. Due to the rain, the groups have been small, the largest she counted was no more than nine birds. Today she said she counted over 350 birds in three waves before I found out about the bonanza. Perhaps since it was the first dry day in weeks, the migration has finally kicked off and the birds are now heading south again.

Every year we have a big splash like this. I think we need some more people around during this time to help with the coverage of this event so that it can be properly documented.

Rain, Sun and Birdies

Rain, rain, rain. It’s almost amazing that even though the rainy season should be winding down by now, Phuket is still experiencing a saturation of rain. Worse yet, it looks like it won’t be letting up for a while.

Birding has been slowed with the recent gloomy weather but the early mornings have proven to be interesting. Birds are conglomerating on exposed patches of earth where they can get the most sunlight or preening on telephone wires by the droves. This morning (at 6 AM) I found six Spotted Doves, a pair of Zebra Doves, four Glossy Starlings and a mixed group of around 12 White Vented and Common Myna sitting quietly in a grassy field near my home, soaking up the morning rays. On the telephone wire above the road were six Chestnut Capped Bee Eaters, two Blue Tailed Bee Eaters, three Yellow Vented Bulbul, five Brown Throated Sunbirds, one Brown Shrike, three Black Drongo and a pair of Olive Backed Sunbirds, either preening or perched facing the sun.

I wish I could do the same thing too. Only problem is I’m too lazy to get out of bed that early on a regular basis.

Koh Tapao Yai: The Last Outpost

Koh Tapao Yai is a little island barely two blocks offshore of Phuket near Laem Panwa cape. It is not a very large island and can be easily seen from the mainland. Since it is an uninhabited island with no fresh water available on the island, it has gone unnoticed by the general public for years. Many years ago Mr. Arun (owner of Racha Pradapyon Car Accessories shop near Phuket Island Hotel in Phuket Town) invested millions to build a resort on the island, only to see it fail after a few years. Today his defunct hotel is the only structure on the island.

However, there is a specialty that makes this island unique from its peers and that is th